Redoing my studio, Final thread

Broadband bass traps are the way to go

So that standing cabinet is impeding the development of the room
- it is where the bass trap should go and the corner it is trying to treat is compromised by the cabinet remaining

Your listening position is undefined
- distance from the wall you face and distance in from the side wall would be helpful
- usually 1/3 the length of the long wall in

Distance between speakers are going to be an issue but they should be on the short wall and facing in at 60[sup]o[/sup] to focus at your listening position

Roof - only thing that I would do is put a layer of spray foam or other foam (diffusers) to cover the joins in the floor boards above

First reflection points are determined by the direction your monitors face

Take a ball of string, tack it down to your monitors (with blu-tac or similar) so that it is directly and centrally above the center cone of each driver, extend the string out as far it goes until it reaches a wall this is the central position of your first reflection panel on each wall. You can continue to work the string ray around the room to find 2nd and 3rd points of reflection but ensure that the angle of reflection is the same as the angle of incidence (should be 60[sup]o[/sup] or a total of 120[sup]o[/sup])

thanks for the offer of a meal, but it would be a hellavu trip to site and eat it with you.......
 
bandcoach said:
Broadband bass traps are the way to go

So that standing cabinet is impeding the development of the room
- it is where the bass trap should go and the corner it is trying to treat is compromised by the cabinet remaining

Your listening position is undefined
- distance from the wall you face and distance in from the side wall would be helpful
- usually 1/3 the length of the long wall in

Distance between speakers are going to be an issue but they should be on the short wall and facing in at 60[SUP]o[/SUP] to focus at your listening position

Roof - only thing that I would do is put a layer of spray foam or other foam (diffusers) to cover the joins in the floor boards above

First reflection points are determined by the direction your monitors face

Take a ball of string, tack it down to your monitors (with blu-tac or similar) so that it is directly and centrally above the center cone of each driver, extend the string out as far it goes until it reaches a wall this is the central position of your first reflection panel on each wall. You can continue to work the string ray around the room to find 2nd and 3rd points of reflection but ensure that the angle of reflection is the same as the angle of incidence (should be 60[SUP]o[/SUP] or a total of 120[SUP]o[/SUP])

thanks for the offer of a meal, but it would be a hellavu trip to site and eat it with you.......
Click to expand...

My listening position is about 5 ft from the shortwall and 3.5 feet from the long one. The speakers were angled so that my head was slightly behind the desk, since I wanted an equilibrium.

By the joins in the roof, do you mean the inward parts or the outward pats?

Also, I forgot to include this in the video. The reason that cabinet isn't out yet is because some of the stuff was built around it, so if I want it out it's going to be a greater undertaking than any other part. If I had to keep it in there, could I cover it or put bass traps on both sides of it or something?

And it's actually a requirement to eat dinner with me, don't be rude.
 
Cabinet needs to go period - it is an impediment to placing speakers and the bass traps

I'm talking about the floor boards visible in the gaps/bumps/slots in the roof

Listening angle from your head to each speaker should be 60[sup]o[/sup] for optimal positioning

Re dinner: you popping for the airfare and accommodation too?
 
bandcoach said:
Cabinet needs to go period - it is an impediment to placing speakers and the bass traps

I'm talking about the floor boards visible in the gaps/bumps/slots in the roof

Listening angle from your head to each speaker should be 60[SUP]o[/SUP] for optimal positioning

Re dinner: you popping for the airfare and accommodation too?
Click to expand...

The cabinet is gone, as you can see.

Future producers studio demo 3 - YouTube

So there are questions in that video. Also, you were saying I have a specific frequency to get to, but that DIY thing doesn't really talk about frequencies. He cuts the wood into triangles, puts some material over it, then he's done. Are broadband bass traps not meant for specific frequencies and if so, should I go buy them? Same question for reflectors

Dinner: We can go halvesies on the airfare.
 
the trim at the top of each wall leave it in place; fix the obvious structural issues (gaps and voids)

adjust the top part of the bass traps to reflect the change in the contours as you move up the wall: maybe use a stick that allows you to trace the profile in the top 4 feet in each corner at each side so that you map out the profile before finalising construction

no bass trap behind the booth door for obvious reasons

make sure that you get power coming from the sockets that the traps will go in front before putting them in place (so much harder to get at once set up.

As for tuning the traps to match your frequency profile: you can adjust them so that the cavity is variable in depth creating a variable tuned cavity

I'll come back with the final bits on where to put the speakers etc in the morning
 
bandcoach said:
the trim at the top of each wall leave it in place; fix the obvious structural issues (gaps and voids)

adjust the top part of the bass traps to reflect the change in the contours as you move up the wall: maybe use a stick that allows you to trace the profile in the top 4 feet in each corner at each side so that you map out the profile before finalising construction

no bass trap behind the booth door for obvious reasons

make sure that you get power coming from the sockets that the traps will go in front before putting them in place (so much harder to get at once set up.

As for tuning the traps to match your frequency profile: you can adjust them so that the cavity is variable in depth creating a variable tuned cavity

I'll come back with the final bits on where to put the speakers etc in the morning
Click to expand...

By trim did you mean like the metal from the sliding door and the curtain?

For adjusting the bass, could I just do it up until the contours and then build a separate thing for those contours?

I don't know if I'll need that socket, I have A LOT of plugins.

Sorry, I'm a little confused on the tuning part...
 
Metal, any boards that are along the edges at the ceiling or the floor, can include the curtains

You could but it would need to be acoustically coupled to the first trap (i.e. you build both so that the lower half has no top and the upper half has no bottom and so that they align and lock together)

ok, just no that in some rooms power sources are at a premium.

tuning simply means that you build it so that it covers a range of frequencies best achieved by having a slanted face - the larger the cavity the lower the frequency the smaller the cavity, the higher the frequency
 
1) How is it possible to make it variable in it's cavity if it's enclosed? I assume by cavity you do mean the inside.
2) How would I even know what to tune it to?
3) Now it makes sense that If I am going to make a separate trap for the more complicated areas that I would connect it to the main bass trap, except then why would I be able to leave the metal parts on the ceiling? After all, the bass trap wont connect to the ceiling if I don't move them, and it will create another space with depth and width.
4) Where should I put the speakers? It doesn't seem I have a place to put them that's not near a wall, unless I actually got speaker stands and put them behind my desk (which would make multiple people in the studio hell).
 
angled front - base is wider than the top and the face is sloped to the top from the bottom
you have the numbers from our first discussions
the trim is not an issue, just adjust the profile of the traps to match
speakers need to be off the wall and along the short wall with 5' between them and and angled 60[sup]o[/sup] in towards the listening position
 
bandcoach said:
angled front - base is wider than the top and the face is sloped to the top from the bottom
you have the numbers from our first discussions
the trim is not an issue, just adjust the profile of the traps to match
speakers need to be off the wall and along the short wall with 5' between them and and angled 60[SUP]o[/SUP] in towards the listening position
Click to expand...

I clearly need to do research on that, because the DIY has no specifications on that. He just got wood, made triangles, and made a flat wall.

I do

I will figure out how to do that

By The short wall, did you mean the wall opposite the door, or did you mean the shortest wall that is part of the vocal booth?

P.S. Dinner is cold
 
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Oddly enough, I got a whole kit to take care of reflections and ceiling, and it came with 24 x11 Studiofoam panels and 6 1' Lenrd Bass Panels.

I am going to use the studio foam, but do I Just ignore these bass traps since I Need broadbands?
 
OH god I'm dumb. I was mixing up super chunk bass traps with broadband. So that adjustable cavity thing makes a little sense, but I may need to see a picture of it
 
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