1200 m3d? PITCH CONTROL CALIBRATIONS? Has anybody ever done this?

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Brandon_Wahl

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Here is the link to the orignal thread.
http://www.okcraves.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1233

This is my problem.

I can put a record on the left table. The pitch is at 2% and the record is playing at 140bpm.

Now i put the same record on the right table and to get it to spin at the same speed 140bpm's the pitch must be put at 1%.

So the two tables have about 1% diffrence.

Not a big problem but i want to fix it if it can be fixed.

I wanted to adjust my tables so zero pitch would really be zero pitch. This is the only info i could find on it. I don't know if i want to try it becous this info is for the mk2 not the m3d. Has anybody done this

What i am confused about is it says to put the pitch on zero. Their is a groove on the mk2 wich locks it on zero(this is what they are talking about). So do i push the "qurts lock button" (same as the zero% groove on the mk2) on the m3d before doing the adjustments?


PITCH CONTROL CALIBRATIONS

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IMPORTANT: Make sure you have the pitch slider set at the center (0%) if you make any of the two following adjustments.

Also, the pitch gain on one 1200 is not necessarily the same on another 1200. Or, a +6 according to the scale on the first 1200 is probably not the same speed as a +6 according to the scale on the other.


ADJUSTING THE PITCH SLIDER TO 0% AT CENTER

Contrary to (popular?) belief there is no way to lose true 0% pitch when the slider is in the middle - no matter how you hack it. When in the middle there is a switch which is thrown which bypasses the pitch slider and the motor is now crystal locked at the exact speed. But, if your deck is messed up in this area when you move the slider in the + direction, for example, it will slow down at first and will then move to 0 and then will speed up as you move it more in the + direction! In other words you now have 0 at two places. So this is for reference if you need to get your pitch slider so that 0 is really in the center. Open up the base, look where the pitch pot is. There will be a hole about 3-5mm in diameter where you can see a small pot on the other side. Hook up a multimeter to that pot (again, connect to the center lead and the one nearest the edge of the board I think) and use a small adjustment screwdriver to adjust it to 2.7kOhm, and that's it.

CALIBRATING YOUR PITCH CONTROL TO ORIGINAL FACTORY SPECS
(Provided by: Darren McMoran - Technics SL's Web Community)

Part 1:
1. Set pitch Knob to 0
2. Pull out the CN102 plug from the drive PCB
3. Connect multimeter to terminals 5 and 6 of plug CN102 (+=5, -=6) on the pitch control PCB side. Adjust VR302 so that the resistance is 2.7Kohms. ± .01Kohm.

Part 2:
1. Reconnect CN102 plug back to PCB.
2. Connect frequency counter to TP27(+) and the GND(-) below it. Turn power to ON.
3. Set pitch control knob to 0
4. adjust VR301 so that frequency is 262.08kHz. ± 0.05kHz.

These adjustments have now reset the whole pitch control system back to factory spec. Failure to bring these measurements to spec indicates either worn variable pitch fader and/or pitch control variable resistor. If these are new, then the fault could lie with the the control IC, IC301. Hers's a list of what they do. IC101 = Turntable Drive IC201 = Turntable Control IC301 = Pitch Control IC302 = NAND Gate
:bigeyes:
 
Dont know mate, but a 1% difference between your decks is to be expected. just be very careful that you do it right in case it all goes David Seaman on you.
 
PS: 3 posts of the same message? You know, the people who look at the mixing section will definitely also look at the scratching and equipment section. Me thinks Mano will be doing some cleaning up.
 
Yah, I think the concern for multiple posts is not necessarily clutter, but making only one post keeps all the threads together. It makes retrieving information much easier if all the replies are under one posting.

Keep the forums clean, and post in the right areas. It makes everyone happy! (Sorry for sounding like mano1.) :cool:

:cheers:
 
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