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Thread: My Studio Acoustic Build/Pics Inside

  1. #1
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    Cool My Studio Acoustic Build/Pics Inside

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    Whats up everyone....thought I would share this with my friends here at futureproducers!
    I am creating a video for the whole thing.
    Will be on my youtube channel.
    Dozerbeatz - YouTube
    So others can see how I did everything, as well
    as types of materials used.

    Main source of acoustic treatment can be purchased at Lowes.
    I am using Roxul Safe'n'Sound.
    So far, purchased 2 $40 packages of this:12 batts each package.
    Shop]Shop Roxul 12-Pack 47-in L x 15-1/4-in W x 3-in D Stone Wool Insulation Batts at Lowes.com

    Lowes offers "Ship to Store" if you want to go with the 2'x4' batts.
    They did not have them in my local Lowes. And this size left me more options, just in case.


    Currently upgrading my studio acoustics. Alot of work to be done.
    Starting off with "floor to ceiling" corner bass traps.
    I have completed those, just need to get fabric for front frame.

    Floor to ceiling corner bass trap,
    32" face with 16" depth from face to corner apex.
    Here are some pics, though I am also doing video, to be edited later.

    Before measurements have been taken, will also be taking after measurements.

    Shop Roxul 12-Pack 47-in L x 15-1/4-in W x 3-in D Stone Wool Insulation Batts at Lowes.com


    Halfway up one of the corners, with midpoint shelf.
    I could have gone a different route, and used only one triangular piece of Roxul in
    the corner, which would have given me about a 22" face, that would leave
    alot of Roxul for doing four corners, or, extra panels. However, I am
    purchasing another package of the Roxul for the rest of my panels.
    As well as doing a diffuser build for the back wall, depending on measurements.


    One full corner complete.


    Full corner trap, with frame in front, frame not attached,
    still have to add fabric. Frame built with 1x2" treated pine.
    For 1x2x8": At Lowes
    Treated Pine is $1.97 per piece.
    When building, I recommend using the pine,
    the regular cheap furring strips that are $0.97
    are usually warped and bent. Unless you can
    find some straight pieces.



    Full shot, minus ceiling cloud, and other stuff I am building.
    Don't mind the foam you see behind the desk,
    that is all going to be taken down.
    I have some other OC703 panels that are going to be placed in that area, Possibly.
    The bench on the left will not be there when finished.
    One side of the wall is 7ft, because of heating duct in ceiling, other wall is 7'10".
    "STUPID HEATING/COOLING DUCT!!!" lol
    Monitor distances subject to change, as well as possibly purchasing
    additional 8" active monitors, which will not be tied into the sub.
    I have outlined where I am going to use panels to straddle front "wall to ceiling".
    And above me, where the ceiling cloud will extend.
    The frames for the corner traps are not attached, they are
    just leaning against them for now. Next photos will be with the fabric.
    The wall behind the desk to be treated with panels I have allready.


    Midway shelf for corner trap. The outer frame that will be
    holding the fabric is going to be screwed to the center piece,
    with one screw in center, through outer frame, into front midway
    shelf piece, since outer frame weights pretty much under 4 pounds, and
    can pretty much stand there alone with a screw.


    Midway shelf with triangular cut top cap.
    Extra framing wood piece under cap was used
    to give support for the front face edge of cap.


    Left over Roxul for ceiling clouds.
    4 batts, plus excess waste pieces(to be used for something)


    Also monitoring chain.
    2)KRK RP5
    1)KRK RP10S Sub.
    Room dimensions are in first post of this thread, with sketch.
    Speaker distance subject to change.
    I built the monitor stands.
    Monitors on three 1/4" clear rubber cabinet door bumpers.
    One bumper under front, other two in back corners of monitors.

    NOTE:Purchasing another $40 package of Roxul for other panels.
    The current acoustic treatment you see, will change.
    Some things in room will be moved, such as the bench seen next to the corner trap.
    Last edited by DaGSpotSoldier; 02-28-2013 at 07:03 AM.

  2. #2
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    Looks nice. I look forward to seeing the completed pics. Don't sweat the fabric for your traps, u can always get burlap at a local fabric shop (although u don't have to get burlap). Do u plan to put anything behind the desk for reflections or is it a big open room?

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    Yes, full details above the pic showing the full shot. Just updated original post.
    Front wall behind desk to be treated. The foam you see will not be there.
    Back wall(not shown), to be treated accordingly.

    To tell you the truth, foam products have their place, however, for the money,
    you are better off buying OC703/OC705, Roxul, or other types of insulation
    that can be used for acoustic treatment, that will far exceed the foam products.

    The price of some of these foam room packages, is freaking ludicrous.
    If you are going to spend that kind of money, and want ready made stuff,
    better off going with Real Traps or GIK Acoustics, and getting it done right.

    The Roxul is $40 a package, and depending on size of the batts, you can
    make various amount of panels. So if someone spent $80 on 2 packages,
    they could build quite a few panels.
    Plus the price of lumber, screws, and maybe bracing and glue, other.

    However, many people who are just getting started, seem to think that acoustic treatment
    is all about going out and putting foam all over your walls.
    To do it correctly, you need to make measurements, which I am doing.
    Once done with my treatment, I will take "after" measurements, and will
    then see where I am, and that will determine my next step in
    correcting the room.
    Last edited by DaGSpotSoldier; 02-28-2013 at 07:15 AM.

  4. #4
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    Cool I treated my room this past summer (there are some pics somewhere in the post ur pics thread). I got my stuff from ATS http://www.atsacoustics.com (their prices are actually cheaper than most places), and I used the mineral wood also. Ya DIY is cheaper, but it can be a time consuming process. I wouldn't get rid of all the foam, I actually put up a few foam panels after I finished with my traps and absorbers ( just a couple spots).
    Last edited by mwandishi; 02-28-2013 at 07:58 AM.

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    Oh, yeah, the foam will be used, but not as a main source of treatment.

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    I'd say if possible make the ceiling/front wall corner traps wider to 24" instead of 16". The larger air gap would give much more bass absorption. Perhaps you could make smaller superchunks for those front corners and use those scraps on the inside of them? Everything else looks good so far though! Good work.
    Alexander Reynolds
    GIK Acoustics USA (770) 986 2789 | GIK Acoustics Europe +44 (0) 20 7558 8976 (UK)

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    Quote Originally Posted by GIK Acoustics View Post
    I'd say if possible make the ceiling/front wall corner traps wider to 24" instead of 16". The larger air gap would give much more bass absorption. Perhaps you could make smaller superchunks for those front corners and use those scraps on the inside of them? Everything else looks good so far though! Good work.
    I ended up going with a 32" face for the front corner traps..
    Will be finishing up later today, take photos, edit videos, take
    measurements to see what my next steps are. Still have to bass trap
    rear wall, and other.

    ---------- Post added 03-07-2013 at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was 03-05-2013 at 06:00 PM ----------

    Here are the finished pics, still more treatment in the future. Currently uploading
    youtube videos, showing construction.

    Side panels OC703 2" thick spaced 3" from side wall
    Rear panels OC703 2"thick spaced 2 1/2" from back wall
    Ceiling Clouds Roxul Safe'n'Sound 3" thick spaced 2" from ceiling.
    Straddle traps at rear ceiling to wall apex Roxul Safe'n'Sound 3" thick


































  8. #8
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    Right on!

    A few notes; you might want to try pulling the desk into the room a bit more and widening the speakers more. Try to get 4 to 5 feet between you and the monitors if it's possible. Should help open up stereo image.
    Also, you might be able to slightly reduce some of the wrinkles of your panels by using a blow dryer on high heat but only blowing lightly. This doesn't work on all fabrics, but is worth a try to clean up the look slightly.

    Edit: Also, have you done a sub crawl to ensure optimal position, or just sat it in the middle of the desk for convenience? You might be able to fill up nulls and reduce some peaks with careful sub placement. Obviously this would be done with testing. Move them sub 6"-12", test, move it, test, etc. It might be in it's best position but typically the center of the room isn't the best spot.

    Good job though, how is it sounding in there?
    Last edited by GIK Acoustics; 03-07-2013 at 11:29 AM.
    Alexander Reynolds
    GIK Acoustics USA (770) 986 2789 | GIK Acoustics Europe +44 (0) 20 7558 8976 (UK)

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    Quote Originally Posted by GIK Acoustics View Post
    Right on!

    A few notes; you might want to try pulling the desk into the room a bit more and widening the speakers more. Try to get 4 to 5 feet between you and the monitors if it's possible. Should help open up stereo image.
    Also, you might be able to slightly reduce some of the wrinkles of your panels by using a blow dryer on high heat but only blowing lightly. This doesn't work on all fabrics, but is worth a try to clean up the look slightly.

    Edit: Also, have you done a sub crawl to ensure optimal position, or just sat it in the middle of the desk for convenience? You might be able to fill up nulls and reduce some peaks with careful sub placement. Obviously this would be done with testing. Move them sub 6"-12", test, move it, test, etc. It might be in it's best position but typically the center of the room isn't the best spot.

    Good job though, how is it sounding in there?
    Thanks for the tips. Everything is going to be getting moved around during measurements.


    That side panel that looks wrinkled, its actually a shiny fabric, so those lines were created from when
    I pulled the fabric tight to staple. So it physically has no wrinkles, but when light hits it, you
    can see the lines. The strething caused the threads to cone closer together in that area.
    So far sounds good. I did some measurements, before and after...will attach .mdat files
    and some screenshots in a bit. Plan on getting some better monitors, 8", not tied into sub.

    I have video that I am currently batch rendering, so when that is done, I will
    grab the measurement .mdat files and snapshots of waterfall, response( low end, full range.)
    impulse response about 40ms range, rt60, other.

    Edit: I have made a private youtube video that I am rendering that touches on the subwoofer.
    But, yes, have to purchase some longer cable so I can optimally place the woofer. My current
    cables are only 6ft.

    ---------- Post added 03-08-2013 at 02:38 AM ---------- Previous post was 03-07-2013 at 08:43 PM ----------

    Here is the link to my Studio Acoustic Build Series playlist.
    Playlist link
    Studio Acoustic Build Series - YouTube

    Videos in playlist:
    How To Build Corner Bass Traps Floor To Ceiling
    Part 1 How To Build Acoustic Clouds and Wall Traps
    Part 2 How To Build Acoustic Clouds and Wall Panels
    How To Hang Acoustic Panels With Accuracy
    How to hang Acoustic Straddle Traps
    How to hang Acoustic Ceiling Cloud Traps

    The studio tour video, to accompany measurement screenshots is rendering. That will be a private video,
    that can only be seen with the link I post.
    Last edited by DaGSpotSoldier; 03-07-2013 at 05:50 PM.

  10. #10
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    Looks real nice man. How does it sound?

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