Why pay $40 for monitor isolation pads?

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UGMastermind

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I have a simple DIY for isolation pads that I have been using. Go to walmart and get a roll of that stuff that you put in drawers to keep stuff from sliding around. Cut them to the size of the bottom of your monitors. Make several of them (I use 6 for each monitor) and just like that you got some isolation pads for around 2 bux! Hope this helps you guys out!
 
Mouse pads on cinder blocks - As effective as almost anything.

I used to have a $8,000 set of speakers sitting on $8 worth of cinder blocks.

The angle was all screwed up, but it certainly took care of transmission and decoupling issues until my stands were ready.
 
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from what i understand. if you wree to hold a mirror on every imaginable surface in your room, wherever you can still see the speakers is a reflective surface that would need to be treated.

Also from what I understand, there may be a difference between absorption and diffusion.

Otherwise, I'd wonder why there is a market for expensive room treatments as opposed to the old carpet on the wall.

Just a question.
 
I had some left over auralux 1x1ft squares. I put two together, and put my Mackies on top. works great..


btw....the poster was talking about monitor isolation, not room treatment :)
 
brooklynmusic said:
from what i understand. if you wree to hold a mirror on every imaginable surface in your room, wherever you can still see the speakers is a reflective surface that would need to be treated.

Also from what I understand, there may be a difference between absorption and diffusion.

Otherwise, I'd wonder why there is a market for expensive room treatments as opposed to the old carpet on the wall.

Just a question.
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"Need" to be treated is a loaded word. Many first reflective surfaces would benefit from a certain amount of absorption. But the *type* of absorption is at least as important as where.

And yes, you can certainly say that absorption and diffusion are two totally different, completely unrelated, wholly at odd with one another, things.

And the difference between carpeting and specialized acoustic treatments is... Let's just say there's a gigantic difference and be done with it.

And I'm not trying to side-track too much here, but "expensive" is relative also. Trying to turn a room in a house into something that's acoustically viable compared to designing a proper room is cheap. Pretty much no matter what. And no, even with the most expensive treatments available, you aren't going to be in the same spot you'd be in with a properly designed and implemented space anyway. But to get "decent" results out of a standard rectangular room in a house for maybe a couple $k - tops - should be considered nothing short of amazing. Considering that a decent *basic* recording studio may have several hundred $k (MINIMUM) in design and treatment in the construction phase.
 
Yeah, you don't need anything fancy. I love mine aualex ones, just because i don't have to worry about them being unstable. Plus they look better than some makeshift solutions, shouldn't matter but for me it does. Mine were only $20, not too bad.
 
3D Beats said:
Yeah, you don't need anything fancy. I love mine aualex ones, just because i don't have to worry about them being unstable. Plus they look better than some makeshift solutions, shouldn't matter but for me it does. Mine were only $20, not too bad.
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Basically your going for the ability to introduce "sound-asorption" from surface that your monitors are setting on. I use the Auarlex for the monitors that sit directly on the monitoring desk(3 pairs, 2 differentdesk).
An additional pair sits on a pair of monitor stands that has a 1/4", surface pad matted to the stands.

SIDE NOTE: Something that is greatly looked over involing your sound "treatment" are surge protectors that filter out "white/pink noise", outside of protecting your equipment.

Take a look @ the "Monster Pro2500/3500" series. Also, the warrenty CAN NOT be beat, they provide you up to $250,000.00 of insurance for registered surges. I have (4) Pro 2500's(8 outlets rear + 2 front) & (2) Pro 3500's(12 outlet's rear + 2 front).

Also, add a UPS system that at least provides you 30min's to shut down your equipment in case of an emergncy.
 
more of a quick comment to newbs, I've only recently isolated my monitors from the surface on which they sit...My oh my what a difference! (and mine are of the homemade variety) If you have decent monitors, this is quite necessary. I've known about doing this for years, but geez...
 
i jus need to find somwhere to place my sub woffer lol
i kno it got it in a bad spot (its in the corner spot of my corner desk) but i dont kno where else to put it at can i get some help
 
LaLeProductionsInc said:
Basically your going for the ability to introduce "sound-asorption" from surface that your monitors are setting on. I use the Auarlex for the monitors that sit directly on the monitoring desk(3 pairs, 2 differentdesk).
An additional pair sits on a pair of monitor stands that has a 1/4", surface pad matted to the stands.

SIDE NOTE: Something that is greatly looked over involing your sound "treatment" are surge protectors that filter out "white/pink noise", outside of protecting your equipment.

Take a look @ the "Monster Pro2500/3500" series. Also, the warrenty CAN NOT be beat, they provide you up to $250,000.00 of insurance for registered surges. I have (4) Pro 2500's(8 outlets rear + 2 front) & (2) Pro 3500's(12 outlet's rear + 2 front).

Also, add a UPS system that at least provides you 30min's to shut down your equipment in case of an emergncy.
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would someone like me benifit from that ? i have 2 computer monitors,motif rack ,computer , roland KC speaker , keyboard , TV , Air Conditioner , USB midi-audio interface , and a cool lamp. should i invest into one of these "moster pro 2500" things? or are they for people that have full blown studios with 9000 track moving fader mixers?
 
hey!! wanted to ask a question.. should i connect my monitors to my UPS? Also should the UPS go through a stabilizer for a safety precaution or is it not required?
 
Unless it's a VERY high-current unit, I wouldn't. The only thing that really draws are your amps.

Heh - "draws current" - "amps" - I made a funny.

If the UPS has that kind of juice (another funny), there you go. Most don't even come close (at least not for under serious $$$$).

Ideally, I'd suggest having your amps on their own dedicated circuit.
 
MASSIVE Mastering said:
Unless it's a VERY high-current unit, I wouldn't. The only thing that really draws are your amps.

Heh - "draws current" - "amps" - I made a funny.

If the UPS has that kind of juice (another funny), there you go. Most don't even come close (at least not for under serious $$$$).

Ideally, I'd suggest having your amps on their own dedicated circuit.
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What he said...

California said:
would someone like me benifit from that ? i have 2 computer monitors,motif rack ,computer , roland KC speaker , keyboard , TV , Air Conditioner , USB midi-audio interface , and a cool lamp. should i invest into one of these "moster pro 2500" things? or are they for people that have full blown studios with 9000 track moving fader mixers?
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Yes you should, you want to provide your equipment/studio with the "cleanest" electrical current possible. Alot of people don't even know/talk about this aspect of recording, because just like AD/DA, there not something that you get to "play" with. You set them up, turn them on & "hopefully" forget that they are there, & continue to create music.
 
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ALIASTrP said:
i jus need to find somwhere to place my sub woffer lol
i kno it got it in a bad spot (its in the corner spot of my corner desk) but i dont kno where else to put it at can i get some help
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You don't want a sub in a closed in corner of any kind. It will make everything way too bassy. You want to put in in as much of an open space you can fingd to give it "breathing room". You don't want to put it on the floor either, but it would be better to put it on the floor out in the open than to leave it in a corner.
 
Adding to LaLe - Monster power conditioners - Namely the 2500's & 3500's aren't for "big pro studios" - Those are entry-level, "bottom of the barrel" for the most part power units.

Not that they're bad - I have a 3500 here and am pretty thrilled with it. I also have dedicated lines for lights, gear, amps, etc. and used to actually run a dedicated step transformer to keep the power at a particular voltage.

Clean power is important in *any* setup. Even a reasonable home stereo (where the 2500 would come in handy).

Personally, I'd suggest the 3500 at a minimum. The 2500 didn't have it under the hood for a recording rig. When you want to compare those to what "expensive" really means, keep in mind that there are power conditioners out there that cost $5,7,10,000 and up. *THOSE* are the ones for the "crazy money" rigs. And that's only after the electrical as a whole is upgraded to a point where it warrants it.

If it means anything, I saw my system-wide self-noise drop by several dB after adding the 3500. I really wasn't expecting that - and I really can't quantify it or justify it with simple physics. But it happened just the same. And the 3500 doesn't complain when you switch on a bunch of class A or AB electronics. It handles huge draws without popping breakers, and it gives you some headroom, electrically speaking. Which is as important as signal headroom when it comes right down to it.

Usually I tend to snub away most things that say "Monster" on them - But those are actually quite decent, and quite cheap for what they offer (don't tell Monster I said that last part).
 
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MASSIVE Mastering said:
Adding to LaLe - Monster power conditioners - Namely the 2500's & 3500's aren't for "big pro studios" - Those are entry-level, "bottom of the barrel" for the most part power units.

Not that they're bad - I have a 3500 here and am pretty thrilled with it. I also have dedicated lines for lights, gear, amps, etc. and used to actually run a dedicated step transformer to keep the power at a particular voltage.

Clean power is important in *any* setup. Even a reasonable home stereo (where the 2500 would come in handy).

Personally, I'd suggest the 3500 at a minimum. The 2500 didn't have it under the hood for a recording rig. When you want to compare those to what "expensive" really means, keep in mind that there are power conditioners out there that cost $5,7,10,000 and up. *THOSE* are the ones for the "crazy money" rigs. And that's only after the electrical as a whole is upgraded to a point where it warrants it.

If it means anything, I saw my system-wide self-noise drop by several dB after adding the 3500. I really wasn't expecting that - and I really can't quantify it or justify it with simple physics. But it happened just the same. And the 3500 doesn't complain when you switch on a bunch of class A or AB electronics. It handles huge draws without popping breakers, and it gives you some headroom, electrically speaking. Which is as important as signal headroom when it comes right down to it.

Usually I tend to snub away most things that say "Monster" on them - But those are actually quite decent, and quite cheap for what they offer (don't tell Monster I said that last part).
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Yes, Sir...;)
 
Thanks everyone.

2 questions:

1. So I've got an Maudio firewire 410 soundcard which I've connected to my APC back RS1000 UPS, should I connect my Maudio BX8A monitors to it as well? Won't it be too heavy a load.

2. Should my UPS be directly plugged into the power circuit or should I let it go through a stabilizer?

Thanks
 
I wouldn't think books would work as well as something soft.
 
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