Sound Proofing a home studio
- Thread starter delo433
- Start date
M
MASSIVE Mastering
Guest
The absolute simplest way is to double up (at least) the drywall - All of it. Walls, ceiling, etc. Add a layer of 5/8" to what's there. Keep in mind that your bass problems are going to be much more significant also - You may need to add a couple more bass traps to whatever's there to make up for the difference.
i3adVVayz
New member
thers this stuff you can buy at most music stores it comes in 4' by 20' foot rolls and its like 4 times more sound proof than pure lead at the same thickness. It costs about 300 per roll but its well worth it. i used it in my vocal booth and its sealed so well that air doesnt even get in.
M
mr. who?
Guest
I had a similar problem. I used Auralex. Their stuff is a bit expensive if you're on a budget though (opinion).
Plus they have a cool offer on their website for a free room analysis. Basically you give them some information about your room - plus a sketch also, and they'll fax or email you back suggestions and a drawing for where to place your acoustic panels and stuff. Pretty cool.
Even if you don't end up using Auralex stuff, you can at least get a good opinion from a pro.
My two cents.
Plus they have a cool offer on their website for a free room analysis. Basically you give them some information about your room - plus a sketch also, and they'll fax or email you back suggestions and a drawing for where to place your acoustic panels and stuff. Pretty cool.
Even if you don't end up using Auralex stuff, you can at least get a good opinion from a pro.
My two cents.
i3adVVayz said:
lol funniest thing i've ever read. Anyways, I got the same problem. What about the ceiling? (i'm not a home improvement kinda guy) Would you double the drywall there too? The walls I believe I can do. My booth is a closet I cleaned out. The walls in there are like woodpanels. Should I change them out for something else? I can fairly good sound in there. Not sound proof at all though. I'm attaching some pics. Anyone got any advice?
joesmartmusic
New member
cheap easy soundproofing
Check out ebay for bulk moving pads. You can get a dozen for less than 100 bucks. Not exactly stylish, but do a great job for cheap.
Mike
Check out ebay for bulk moving pads. You can get a dozen for less than 100 bucks. Not exactly stylish, but do a great job for cheap.
Mike
joesmartmusic
New member
pads
I took 8 of them put em on my ceilings, walls, and around the window in my studio. Looks like a loony bin kinda. My booth is a closet, and put the other 4 in there. It's not the best form of acoustical treatment, but, if you are looking for a "dead" booth, and stop your neighbors complaining. This will work for you.
Peace,
Mike
tray2100 said:
I took 8 of them put em on my ceilings, walls, and around the window in my studio. Looks like a loony bin kinda. My booth is a closet, and put the other 4 in there. It's not the best form of acoustical treatment, but, if you are looking for a "dead" booth, and stop your neighbors complaining. This will work for you.
Peace,
Mike
M
MFB
Guest
Dr. G said:
lmfao...my thoughts exactly
Digigirl
New member
How loud are we talking? Vocals? Guitar? Drums!!??
Build a floating floor on rubber bar mats with 3/4 inch waferboard and construct seperate walls with 2 layers of 5/8 sheetrock, a layer of sheet block and then do your mix of acoustical treatments (aurelex foam, bass traps, t-fusors, ect.) Put the ceiling up using resiliant channels. The key is to silicone every single seam. Use mostly hardcore adhesive opposed to screws. Screws in general compromise the integrity of any soundproofing and transmit sound.
Even if it is an apartment, I have put built a mini-studio room inside the actual sun-room or loft room before. The only thing is that when you move out you have to tear everything down and make it look like nothing happened to get your security deposit back.
Digigirl
Build a floating floor on rubber bar mats with 3/4 inch waferboard and construct seperate walls with 2 layers of 5/8 sheetrock, a layer of sheet block and then do your mix of acoustical treatments (aurelex foam, bass traps, t-fusors, ect.) Put the ceiling up using resiliant channels. The key is to silicone every single seam. Use mostly hardcore adhesive opposed to screws. Screws in general compromise the integrity of any soundproofing and transmit sound.
Even if it is an apartment, I have put built a mini-studio room inside the actual sun-room or loft room before. The only thing is that when you move out you have to tear everything down and make it look like nothing happened to get your security deposit back.
Digigirl
Thats what you have to do, its a construction process you cant just take a booth and make it sound proof off the bat with no foam, i think what you are looking for is the foam method thats not sound proofing...
i am currently trying to undergo the same phase, and confused like a mother f***** about what to do, and how to really make it sound proof in an already pre-existing room
i am currently trying to undergo the same phase, and confused like a mother f***** about what to do, and how to really make it sound proof in an already pre-existing room
M
MASSIVE Mastering
Guest
I don't think anyone here has any idea of the construction of that booth.
If it means anything, I have basic plans for a small vocal booth (cheap and yet effective) here: http://www.massivemastering.com/special/SmallVocalBooth.pdf
If it means anything, I have basic plans for a small vocal booth (cheap and yet effective) here: http://www.massivemastering.com/special/SmallVocalBooth.pdf
Digigirl
New member
I am sorry my response was to delo433. But to answer your question about your cedar lined closet. The real issue is do you own or rent?
There are a few questions I have before I launch into anything.
1. How much do you want to spend to sound proof it? $100, $200, $300, $500?
2. Do the walls of this closet have studs or just cedar nailed to plywood?
3. What is the make up of the closets structure?
If it has stud walls rip out the cedar and replace all walls with two layers of sheetrock and insulation R-19 between. Silicone the whole first layer and mudd the second. Then Auralex foam the interior. First buy 1/8 hard board and cut it to fit the inside of the whole booth. Now use short drywall screws, not many and fasten the hardboard over the finished sheetrock. Now glue the foam to the hardboard. The reason for the hardboard is to remove the foam at a later date if need be for selling the place or new renters. This way you save the foam and the sheetrock by simply pulling out 6 -8 screws in each side of the booth. Ever try to remove foam from sheetrock? Not fun and the sheetrock gets totalled!
Also: Buy a door with a Jamb for $39 and face the back with 1/2 MDF with the door removed. Glue it on with liquid nails. Then face that with foam from the inside of the booth. Put the door on and re-set the door stops back with enough gap for a frost king door jamb set for a tight seal.
Build your jacks and inputs into the wall when you re-do it.
If you want to simply line that wall with sheetrock, glue it on instead and then brace it with 1x1 patterns after another 1/2 layer of MDF so it will not vibrate at vocal frequencies. Fit the foam into the 1X1 patterns.
MDF is higher density than sheetrock and less messy. But if you want to save $$$ sheetrock is the way to go. But spend more on the moister resistant stuff. As far as ventilation you need a plenum design modded to your door that will make your booth the same temp as the room.
Justin from www.dawbox.com builds door modded plenums for around $250 that will enable you to get air into your booth at the lowest possible noise.
PS. Nothing can replace good mastering and the art and killer gear to do it. I have been trying to master my own stuff for years and it is never right. So get the killer takes at home, in the studio, on the good gear. But when it comes time to print the "Real Copies" get it mastered before you do.
I may be hitting you up for some finishing touches "Massive!"
There are a few questions I have before I launch into anything.
1. How much do you want to spend to sound proof it? $100, $200, $300, $500?
2. Do the walls of this closet have studs or just cedar nailed to plywood?
3. What is the make up of the closets structure?
If it has stud walls rip out the cedar and replace all walls with two layers of sheetrock and insulation R-19 between. Silicone the whole first layer and mudd the second. Then Auralex foam the interior. First buy 1/8 hard board and cut it to fit the inside of the whole booth. Now use short drywall screws, not many and fasten the hardboard over the finished sheetrock. Now glue the foam to the hardboard. The reason for the hardboard is to remove the foam at a later date if need be for selling the place or new renters. This way you save the foam and the sheetrock by simply pulling out 6 -8 screws in each side of the booth. Ever try to remove foam from sheetrock? Not fun and the sheetrock gets totalled!
Also: Buy a door with a Jamb for $39 and face the back with 1/2 MDF with the door removed. Glue it on with liquid nails. Then face that with foam from the inside of the booth. Put the door on and re-set the door stops back with enough gap for a frost king door jamb set for a tight seal.
Build your jacks and inputs into the wall when you re-do it.
If you want to simply line that wall with sheetrock, glue it on instead and then brace it with 1x1 patterns after another 1/2 layer of MDF so it will not vibrate at vocal frequencies. Fit the foam into the 1X1 patterns.
MDF is higher density than sheetrock and less messy. But if you want to save $$$ sheetrock is the way to go. But spend more on the moister resistant stuff. As far as ventilation you need a plenum design modded to your door that will make your booth the same temp as the room.
Justin from www.dawbox.com builds door modded plenums for around $250 that will enable you to get air into your booth at the lowest possible noise.
PS. Nothing can replace good mastering and the art and killer gear to do it. I have been trying to master my own stuff for years and it is never right. So get the killer takes at home, in the studio, on the good gear. But when it comes time to print the "Real Copies" get it mastered before you do.
I may be hitting you up for some finishing touches "Massive!"
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